Krishna's followers across Hampta Pass

I look forward to two opportunities every year for trekking; one during the summer and another in autumn. Last year and this year, I have chosen to trek in July, which meant that only Kashmir and Himachal are in play.

We did the grueling Great Lakes trek in Kashmir last year. After the first day, during which we reached the tree line, we were every day camped above 3500m and climbing a 4000 m pass every day till the last day. After a disastrous camping experience with ill prepared Kashmiri guides, we chose to go with our trusted friend Chain Singh Rawat of HPMA, Sankri to Hampta pass.

Hampta pass is a easy to moderate trek staring from the Kullu valley to the Spiti valley. The highlight is a bonus visit to the beautiful Chandratal lake. This time, it was a family trek; my wife and two sons, Sunita and her son as well as Haritha and her son. Haritha, her son, Subash and Sunita’s son Anirudh, were first time trekkers.

All of us flew into Delhi and joined at Kashmere gate ISBT to catch the Himachal road transport Volvo to Manali. (Tip: choose Himachal Tourism Development Corporation bus rather than Himachal road transport bus). It’s a comfortable but long journey (13 hrs) to Manali. The buses are pretty good and drivers are good as well. Remember that they don’t provide any blankets in the bus and it can get cold. We checked into the very beautiful Orchard Hut property of HPTDC. The huts will make you wonder why just a day! The property is absolutely fantastic.

The Sunday was spent relaxing in Manali, certainly needed after the long trip. The day was marked by intermittent drizzle, but we were encouraged by the fact that the weather was expected to be dry from the next day. Surely, it started clearing up in the evening and we went around Manali, getting used to climbing the hills. We visited the Hadimba temple, tasted momo’s at the street outlets (delicious) and visited the mall road. After  buying up last minute stuff, we had dinner at Chopsticks; the most delicious Tibetan and Chinese food I have ever tasted and a place not to be missed in Manali. Note that there portions are enormous.

A note to first time trekkers: Unless you are in top shape - play sport regularly, practice yoga or run (typically should be running 4k in 30 mins), carry Diamox and start the medicine the night before the first day of trek. You should consider 2 a day, at night and in morning. On day one you go from Manali (@2000 m to Jobra by car @2770m and trek 5k to Cheeka @3000m). Plain dwellers, like us at Chennai, if you are not in good shape will struggle beyond this height.

Note: Here is a map of the route that you can see on google maps: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1QCpt0vTniNQHyjqITPoM7841BVM

Day 1: Manali to Jobra by car and trek to Cheeka

We woke up to a wonderful morning with clear skies, a big relief as trekking in rain doesn’t feel great. After a hearty breakfast, we packed our back packs and day packs, filled water and got ready for the trek. Our stuff was piled on to the utility vehicle and we started the climb upto Jobra. This is steep dirt track and the locals turn out to be great drivers. The journey lasted almost 2 hours, before we reached the Jobra starting point near the dam. A 32 member Indiahikes team had left just before us and another group of 13 from Kolkatta arrived just as we were starting. We later realized that this was going to be a crowded day with another 2 groups joining; a total of nearly 100 trekkers!

The track from Jobra to Cheeka is a gentle trail through forest. We gain about 230 m of altitude walking (+700m in the drive), the air is crisp and pure, with the river for company. The boys took the lead and the rest of us older folks bringing up the rear for the day. In Kuldeep and Guddu, we had two wonderful guides accompanying us.

After an 90mins walk, we reached a dhaba and had tea. At this point, vegetation was thinning and we were already in the meadows with very few trees around. However it was green all around us. Another 90 mins of walking brought us to our camp for the day.

Our camp consisted of 4 tents (2 per tent), a dining tent with table and chairs, a kitchen tent and two toilet tents, one for the ladies and another for the gents. This was luxury camping. Once at the camp we were served poori’s and aloo for lunch. Evening snacks was tea and potato bajji, followed by soup and a 3 course dinner.

The afternoon was enjoyed on the river banks, with competition for who could keep the legs longest in the freezing glacial river; Sunita won easily. She was clearly the cold blooded one in the group; not feeling any cold and not bothered with any warm clothing. Harita and Lakshmi were quite the opposite. We also set into motion what was to be our regular routine, playing cards in the dining tent once dusk set.

Since we were already above the tree line, there was no wood and hence no bon fire. That was to be the case during the entire trek. We were also disappointed to hear that there would be no camping at Chandratal; some idiot had chosen to venture into the water, probably in alcoholic stupor and drowned. Consequentially, the authorities had banned all camps near the lake and we would be forced to get back to Chatru for camp.

Day 2: Cheeka to Balu ka Ghera

Today was to be a tougher day, when we would know the true fitness of our team. The day entailed climbing from 3000m to 3600m and walking about 8 kms as well as crossing a glacial river. We started the day with a bit of boulder hopping and steep climb. Our initial 3kms entailed climbing 300m and that is a tall order.

3 kms into the trek, we came across the big challenge, crossing the river. The glacial waters were very cold, possibly about 5 deg, flowing fast and reaching to about our thigh. We had to remove our shoes and roll up our trousers as high as possible. Our guides got into the water first and helped us cross, less than a minute, but we were completely freezing. Our feet and leg were numb from the cold waters and any desire to take bath vanished.

For a short while, we were walking on pleasant meadows filled with all sorts of orchids.

Before the climb of another 300m started.

By this time it was clear that few of our team members were struggling. The first sign of course is heaviness of head and soon to be followed by a head ache. I agreed to put some of the team members on Diamox post lunch.

We had also reached the colder parts of the mountain. Temperature had dropped to single digits. We were beginning to see patches of snow and snow bridges on our route and were experiencing some exhilarating walk along the river.

Our camp today was again next to the river, but bounded by tall snow capped mountains and hardened snow bridges. 

By evening it was quite cold. It was also my wedding anniversary; Lakshmi and I had picked up a bottle of apricot wine, which we chose to open as a celebration.

Day 3: Balu ka ghera to Shiagoru via Hampta pass

It had rained through the night, though not heavily. Which meant it was a very cold morning. This was going to be a tough day and the sky was looking ominous. Everyone was instructed to layer up and keep their rain gear handy. Today we were going to climb from 3600m to reach the pass at 4300m, a distance of 6 kms and then climbdown another 300m.

Our route today had everything to cross; boulder hopping, snow bridges, glacial lake, snow to climb and lots of rocks

The initial route was not much of a climb and we covered the first 2 kilometers in no time, until we reached this beautiful glacial lake.

From here started the serious climb over rocks and snow patches.

By the time we touched 4000m (and still 3 kms from the pass) many were exhausted. Lakshmi had a bit of headache for which she had medicine. However, Subash was getting into bad shape and was struggling. I now had one guide helping Lakshmi, while I was myself helping Subash get though.

Earlier in the day, we had seen 4 members from one of the group return from the day 2 camp towards Manali. They were seriously struggling with high altitude and had chosen to go back. We now saw some more of their team returning. Later we would learn that the balance members were returning from the pass and they were going back to Manali. Our guide was complaining that he had seen many smoking and drinking; not something suitable for the mountain.

By this time we were surrounded by snow capped mountains all around. Air was pretty thin and route was very tough. Every step was a tough climb and many in the team were struggling with the effects of altitude. I had to be constantly shouting encouragement and provide false assurance that the pass was just around the corner. All were pushing themselves to their limit and Subash was struggling to keep pace, never giving up; very brave young man.

Closer to the pass with a few 100m to go, I had to ask the guide to give Subash oxygen from his portable cylinder. With this shot everyone pushed themselves to the beginning of the pass. By now, we had run out of water; whatever was available was frozen and too cold to drink as it was the glacier. The pass itself was a few hundred metres of walk in snow and then we found ourselves having to vertically climb 20m of rock face. Every last ounce was spent on climbing the pass to the ledge.

The final climb to the pass visible from the pass

At the Hampta Pass

At the pass

A visibly tired Subash savouring the joy of reaching the pass

It was one of the most amazing moments; pass on one side and the Shea goru glacier on the other side. Without water, we had a struggle eating our lunch and we were very fortunate for the apples that the guide carried. Many in the team were close to exhaustion and I chose to send the boys down along with the guide as quickly as possible; Subash desperately needed to be at lower altitude.

Then began our grueling climb down of 300m; it was an almost vertical climb down to the Sheagoru valley. We could see the glacier in all its glory. However, one misstep and it could be life threatening fall onto rocks few hundred meters down.

If we thought that was the end of the day’s adventure, we were sorely mistaken. We came across this patch of snow going down some 50ft and we had to get to the bottom. There was no way we were going to be able to do it. It was then that our guides came into play; they helped us slide down to the bottom of the patch.

At the end of the day, 8 weary trekkers reached a campsite in a beautiful but windy valley at 4000m. We were treated to some warm maggi and slept peacefully

Day 4: Sheagoru to Chatru

Today was to be the last day of trek; however, I have always dreaded the descents as they are tougher than climbing up. We were to climb down 700m and that is a tough ask.

We woke up in one of the most beautiful camp sites.

 The day started with the crossing of a glacial river, a tributary of Chandra river. Again a fast flowing extremely cold river. At the end of the crossing we were almost frozen and jumping around to get our feet warm

However, we undoubtedly missed the beautiful campsite.

This was a slow going, but with some awe inspiring views.

A 5 hour walk brought us to Chatru campsite and included one crossing of a snow patch. This was no ordinary crossing; the patch was thin ice and we had a raging river below. A slip meant a fatal plunge into the river.

After a quick lunch, we drove to Chandratal Lake. This was a two and half hour drive over a road which is nothing but boulders all over. The journey was back breaking and took us to one of the most beautiful lake at 4300m altitude.

We had to rush back though, driving in the dark on that road was unpleasant and the higher altitude was making some of the team members sick once again.

Back in the camp, we had the opportunity to see the beautiful night sky. Many got to see the milkyway galaxy for the first time!

Day 5: Back to Manali for catching our bus to Delhi

We wound up camp early in the morning and started our journey back

Another amazing trek comes to completion and the team is already excited about the next trek. As is common, the blog, videos and photos can never do justice to the sheer natural beauty that we were part of. For me just closing the eyes, I can see the various amazing sights once again. May be many of you readers will join me next time.