Puliyogare at Zajibal Pass (The great lakes trek) - Part 3
Day 5: Gadsar to Satsar
We woke up today to a wonderful day, clear blue skies with no sign of rain. In the mountains during the trek, the most beautiful sight and comforting sight is a cloudless sky. We also found that Amulya had recovered from the altitude induced sickness; she was to be perfectly sound the rest of the trek. Unfortunately, Sunita's feet were with multiple blisters. Being the doctor herself, she had dressed and bandaged the wounds and was wondering about walking in sandals.
A major decision was also made today. After the experience of the cook's food, Sharmila decided to take matters in her hands. It started the previous night, when we had rasam with rice for dinner; she had brought rasam powder. an from today, the lunch was to be Puliyogare, which she had also brought as ready mix. Out went cooking instructions and along with Nalini, ensured that packed lunch was Puliyohgare (and hence the title which was completely Sunita's contribution the next day).
Our trek today was first to the army camp at Gadsar for the registration. We had camped a few km away from the camp due to our late departure. This meant we were going to have to walk a few kms longer than normal. But according to our guide, today was going to be an easy trek with no hard climbs. Off we started, lathered heavily in sun screen as sun burn effect was becoming already visible on our faces. Luckily, everyone had listened to my instructions and brought full sleeve T shirts and that saved our hands. Our walk was easy along beautiful meadow in a wide valley.
The army folks were extremely friendly, they offered us water and apologized that tea would take time. The Telugu speaking Jawan was delighted to be able to speak his language. I guess Amulya made his day and reminded him of home. After a 20 minute break, we were to cross the river and start our climb through a snow patch. We could see the river flowing underneath the snow, but the speed of the river meant that crossing the snow bridge was the easiest way.
This followed a few kilometers of gradual climb through some amazing meadows. On our right side was tall mountains, beyond which was the Line of Control. Sunita's feet were really hurting and she chose to go on the horse this stretch.
After an hours steady climb, we reached the stretch which was a stiffer climb.
A two hour climb helped us move from one valley to the other.
The new valley we entered was even more wider and is referred to as the Doobtha Pani. The glacier melt river flows into a lake. The lake has an underground aqua-duct which takes the water below the mountains to Pakistan; a sort of natuaral wonder.
The next army camp is between the two peaks. We first had to cross the river, which wasn't very deep, but freezing for sure. We had to remove shoes to ensure a comfortable crossing. Just as we crossed, from nowhere a cloud cover moved in. The camp is known to be extremely windy and the brave soldiers form the third line of defence from the border. As we were coming in a patrol was leaving for the border. The army informed us that there were times when a person a few feet away can't be seen or heard because of the cloud and wind noise.
At Satsar, we had our Puliyogare lunch and long chat with the army Jawans. Again there was a Telegu jawan, who was delighted to meet fellow natives. Being in the pass, the camp made a bad site for camping and it was Meghandoob top a few kms beyond the Satsar lakes that were the preferred camping site. From where we were, we could see nothing more than a few feet and had to be on single file. Sunita now had to walk as the route wasn't suitable for horse ride.
The last stretch of the trek to the camp was tough. We had to cross snow patches, muddy stretches and jump on rocks. As we reached the other side of the lake, the fog started lifting.
The Satsar is a series of 7 lakes, however, depending on water/snow levels the lake numbers can vary. Crossing the lakes, we reached our camp site for the day.
Today was a day we reached early by the standards of the previous days. We all relaxed and freshened. Sunita had to redo the dressing of the blisters which had grown worse. As we were sitting for dinner, we saw dark clouds gather near the Satsar camp of army. By the time we finsihed dinner, the wind was howling and we were witnessing a thunderstorm. All of us were concerned about the stability of the tents. The guides and porters, despite getting wet, retied all the guy ropes and added extra tarp sheets to prevent wanter entering tents. Thankfully, the storm passed in 35 minutes.
Day 6: Satsar to Gangbal
Today was to be the highlight, camp at the base of Harmukh glacier on the banks of Nandukol. We started early as we wanted to cross the Zajibal pass before afternoon. After the routine bread omlette breakfast, we set out on our trek, again crossing a river. The first few hours of the day was to be boulder hopping and Sunita had to walk as the horse would struggle on the route.
The boulder crossing was really tough and Sunita lost her sunglasses which fell between rocks. It took us close to one and half hours to cross the boulder stretch. The further climb was through meadow, but also afforded views of the tree line for the first time.
We thought we had reached the top, when we realized that we had a tough climb through snow, boulders and slush. We decided to have refreshments before the assault at Zajibal pass. As luck would have it the weather became cloudy, which meant the snow was easier to cross. We had a good 100m of climb up snow.
The top of Zajibal pass was beautiful with snow on one side and the Gangabal/Nadukol lake on the other side. Fittingly, we enjoyed a wonderful lunch of Puliyogare at Zajibal pass.
If we thought, our journey was near, we were mistaken, we had a tough trek till the lake. The downhill was steep and rocky.
The journey, though ended at one of the most beautiful campsite on the banks of the Nadukol lake. The trek though had its bit of
Again we were pretty early, so we tried some thing of a new adventure; bath in the freezing water. The sun being out helped.
The cook offered to get fresh trout from the lake and we all said a loud yes. They cooked the fish based on Sharmila's instruction and we had an awesome dinner of rice, rasam, fish and vegetables. This was probably the best dinner for the entire trek.
As we were winding up it started getting cloudy all around us. The local shepherd predicted that there wouldn't be any rain or only light rain. It turned out to be true. However, we could see lightning strikes all around the valley beyond the hills, the mountains seemed to be protecting us. It was much later that we learnt that there had been cloud bursts in three different places, we had been spared, but were very close to the cloud burst.
We woke up today to a wonderful day, clear blue skies with no sign of rain. In the mountains during the trek, the most beautiful sight and comforting sight is a cloudless sky. We also found that Amulya had recovered from the altitude induced sickness; she was to be perfectly sound the rest of the trek. Unfortunately, Sunita's feet were with multiple blisters. Being the doctor herself, she had dressed and bandaged the wounds and was wondering about walking in sandals.
A major decision was also made today. After the experience of the cook's food, Sharmila decided to take matters in her hands. It started the previous night, when we had rasam with rice for dinner; she had brought rasam powder. an from today, the lunch was to be Puliyogare, which she had also brought as ready mix. Out went cooking instructions and along with Nalini, ensured that packed lunch was Puliyohgare (and hence the title which was completely Sunita's contribution the next day).
 |
| View from Gadsar Campsite |
The army folks were extremely friendly, they offered us water and apologized that tea would take time. The Telugu speaking Jawan was delighted to be able to speak his language. I guess Amulya made his day and reminded him of home. After a 20 minute break, we were to cross the river and start our climb through a snow patch. We could see the river flowing underneath the snow, but the speed of the river meant that crossing the snow bridge was the easiest way.
 |
| Snow bridge climb with a roaring river below |
 |
| This photo has been voted top 20% on Pixoto! Beyond the mountains on left is LOC |
A two hour climb helped us move from one valley to the other.
The new valley we entered was even more wider and is referred to as the Doobtha Pani. The glacier melt river flows into a lake. The lake has an underground aqua-duct which takes the water below the mountains to Pakistan; a sort of natuaral wonder.
 |
| River called the Doobtapani |
 |
| This is the deep pit into which the Doobtapani dissappears |
At Satsar, we had our Puliyogare lunch and long chat with the army Jawans. Again there was a Telegu jawan, who was delighted to meet fellow natives. Being in the pass, the camp made a bad site for camping and it was Meghandoob top a few kms beyond the Satsar lakes that were the preferred camping site. From where we were, we could see nothing more than a few feet and had to be on single file. Sunita now had to walk as the route wasn't suitable for horse ride.
The Satsar lake was covered in fog and looked straight out of the Lord of the Rings
The last stretch of the trek to the camp was tough. We had to cross snow patches, muddy stretches and jump on rocks. As we reached the other side of the lake, the fog started lifting.
The Satsar is a series of 7 lakes, however, depending on water/snow levels the lake numbers can vary. Crossing the lakes, we reached our camp site for the day.
 |
| Sunset at Meghandoob |
Day 6: Satsar to Gangbal
Today was to be the highlight, camp at the base of Harmukh glacier on the banks of Nandukol. We started early as we wanted to cross the Zajibal pass before afternoon. After the routine bread omlette breakfast, we set out on our trek, again crossing a river. The first few hours of the day was to be boulder hopping and Sunita had to walk as the horse would struggle on the route.
The boulder crossing was really tough and Sunita lost her sunglasses which fell between rocks. It took us close to one and half hours to cross the boulder stretch. The further climb was through meadow, but also afforded views of the tree line for the first time.
We thought we had reached the top, when we realized that we had a tough climb through snow, boulders and slush. We decided to have refreshments before the assault at Zajibal pass. As luck would have it the weather became cloudy, which meant the snow was easier to cross. We had a good 100m of climb up snow.
The top of Zajibal pass was beautiful with snow on one side and the Gangabal/Nadukol lake on the other side. Fittingly, we enjoyed a wonderful lunch of Puliyogare at Zajibal pass.
If we thought, our journey was near, we were mistaken, we had a tough trek till the lake. The downhill was steep and rocky.
The journey, though ended at one of the most beautiful campsite on the banks of the Nadukol lake. The trek though had its bit of
 |
| Nandukol Lake |
 |
| Gangabal Lake |
Again we were pretty early, so we tried some thing of a new adventure; bath in the freezing water. The sun being out helped.
The cook offered to get fresh trout from the lake and we all said a loud yes. They cooked the fish based on Sharmila's instruction and we had an awesome dinner of rice, rasam, fish and vegetables. This was probably the best dinner for the entire trek.
As we were winding up it started getting cloudy all around us. The local shepherd predicted that there wouldn't be any rain or only light rain. It turned out to be true. However, we could see lightning strikes all around the valley beyond the hills, the mountains seemed to be protecting us. It was much later that we learnt that there had been cloud bursts in three different places, we had been spared, but were very close to the cloud burst.
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