Puliyogare at Zajibal Pass (Kashmir Great Lakes trek) Part 4

Day 7: Gangabal to Trundkhol 

Many would cover the Gangabal to Naranag stretch in a single day. This is a steady descent of 11 km from 3600m to 2300m and is truly difficult. We chose to split this into two sections, first to Trunkhol and further to Naranag next day. As such the day was to be very short, about 3 hrs maximum. We decided to start by 11 and use the morning to enjoy the beauty of the twin lakes.

We got up to cloudy skies, luckily no rain. Breakfast was spartan, just bread; a full tray of eggs had got crushed when one of the horses stumbled. Similarly lunch was to be rice with potatoes and onions.

As we started a mild drizzle started, ensuring very limited photographs for the day. The first task for the day was to cross the stream originating at Nandukol lake and its not easy. Its above thigh level, very cold and fast; the best way being crossing the rocks and a partial wood bridge. I will leave it to you to see it below


Once we  crossed the river the drizzle picked up; it was now steady and the fog moved in. We had no visibility beyond 10 feet and what was to be a very easy trek soon became a nightmare (slush and cold combined with very poor visibility). We had to maintain visual contact with each other and that meant no more than a few meters apart. Actually, we drifted a bit away from the trail and had to correct our route.

After a few hours (3 to be precise), we reached just before the army camp. There invitingly was the forest department guest house and we decided to stop here. We were all wet; despite the rain protection, our trousers were wet. Shoes and socks were soaked. 

Our guides went in to the guest kitchen to prepare tea. As we stood sipping our tea, we casually remarked that it would be wonderful to be in a cottage like the guest house. It was raining and we weren't looking to stay in a cold and wet tent. The care taker came out we casually enquired and his response was "Kyun nahin". We then asked who can give permission and he responded, "hum dhenge". A quick shout shout went out and we rejoiced.

The guest house was a wooden structure and pretty warm. Flooring was carpeted, there was a WC and running water; luxury by what we had been used to. Our guides weren't happy initially; it meant they had to walk ahead to the clearing and bring back the luggage. We later realized that they had pitched camp and had to dismantle it. But then they got to stay in a warm kitchen (it had traditional heating). The army staff were pleasant and were preparing for a visit by a senior brass. They assured us that even though we had just come by what used to be the corridor for infiltration, there had not been an a single infiltrator who had managed to come in the last 2 years. You felt very assured by them. 

Unfortunately, our camp has no pictures, we had army camp nearby and were prohibited from taking pictures. So all we had or pictures of the nearby sights.




Just as note, the tents seen in the picture were occupied by an Australian couple, their daughter and guide. The child was less than 2! Imagine an Indian couple travelling with a 2 year old! (forget camping). Incidentally, the kid was absolutely enjoying it.

We had a great evening of rasam, rice and the remains of the last potatoes, singing and celebrations. The guides sang local songs for us and it was a great evening. The icing was that we got to stay in warm room and use a covered washroom!

Day 8: Return to Naranag

Today was to be the last day and we woke up to cloudy skies, but rain seemed to have kept away. The cook had run out of provisions and all we had was a roti each for breakfast! We needed to wait a few hours to reach an en-route dhaba for food.

Sunita's foot by now were terrible and its a tribute that she was even walking; a brave woman indeed. Our route was long, 9km and a down hill of 1000m which translates to brutal on the knee. To make matters worse, rain and horses which went ahead of us (some 50 of them including of Indiahikes, TrekTheHimalayas and our own) meant that the trail was a slippery, treacherous slush.







We had our food refill at the dhaba, what a relief, even if it wasn't the great food. We also had mobile connectivity and discovered that there had been a cloud burst 2 days before (the day we camped at Gangabal). They were very concerned (and I will not reveal the names of the husbands who had no concerns). Our TV media also did something they are infamous for (and hated in the valley); blow out a small political incidence out of proportion. Accoding to them Srinagar was tense and not safe, which was farthest from truth.

 After wishing and reassuring our families, we set out on a gruelling 3 hour trek down hill to Naranag which was visible now.
Naranag from our trail
To gauge the difficulty, imagine walking down staircase for 3 continuous hours along stairs filled with a foot of slush, a few feet wide and with a valley on one side. It wasn't pleasant or easy.

As we got closer to Naranag, it started to drizzle (no more pictures) and we were really stressed. Luckily, the downpour waited till we reached Naranag and the restaurant we were to have lunch. We were met by the owner of Kashmir Treks (Mehraj Mir). The day was a great day of celebration after Ramzan, Id. The entire valley was celebrating. We had lunch of rice, chicken, meat, vegetable and omlette. We were ravenous and had a heavy lunch.

Many of us decided to share some of our used gear with the guides. These are very hard working peasants, who work for 6 months and then shut shop for the harsh Himalayan winter. Winters in these parts is 5 or 6 foot of snow and no work, harsh life indeed. After very grateful goodbyes (as much from us as them), we got into motorized cars and drive back to Srinagar.

On the way, some of us picked up some of the most delicious plums and walnuts for bargain basement pricing by city standards. The entire valley was having people on the streets, not protesting as the media were reporting, but celebrating Id. The gaily mood was infectious.

We got back to the houseboat and enjoyed much deserved bath. It was wonderful to feel fresh and clean. Some of us chose to take a shikara ride in dal lake. It made you fall in love with Srinagar, these pictures speak for themselves







One of the thousand house boat
Some of the key points:

  • The trek is not the toughest, however, most of it is above 3000m and hence good fitness is mandatory.
  • There are significant climb every day and equally significant descent
  • There is quite a bit of boulder hopping
  • Snow can make it tough as melting snow would mean significant slush
  • Trek agencies in Kashmir are not as well developed as in Uttarakhand or Himachal. As such go through details with them with fine tooth comb
But then there is nothing to beat Kashmiri hospitality. In terms of road infrastructure, Kashmir is way ahead. The same is good for scenic beauty, though that is in the eye of the beholder.

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